Paisleys and Peacocks

Are we lost in the shuffle?

2010-10-03T15:53:00.000-07:00

And even if not, is it too little too late? or does it matter?

This week's issue of "America" - the Catholic weekly - carried a story that threatens my already fragile sense of identity - or maybe not! It's the story of the Church's attempt to address the problems of the "historic churches of the Middle East" including the Syrian Catholic church.

Wait a minute, did they say 'Syrian Catholic' without mentioning that other (Kerala) Syrian Catholic church? did they forget to include the Syro-Malabar or the Syro-Malankara churches even as they talked of 'historic churches' (see picture below from Wikipedia's entry on same subject)? Yes, and, yes!

Ok, perhaps the issues behind the story did not really relate to anything that might resonate with Kerala Syrian Catholics?

Oh, wait another minute! The issues they are to talk of, are Immigration and Emigration! If anyone has experience of those two topics that would be Keralites indeed! Whether the issue is that of immigration into the Middle East (Saudi Arabia) "where public observance of christianity is prohibited" and so presents a problem, or emigration to host countries like USA, Canada, Australia, Kerala Syrian Catholics have direct and relevant experience of both topics!

So why would the Church not include the Syrian Catholic churches of Kerala (the Syro-Malabar Church or the Syro-Malankara church) in these discussions? Is it perhaps that the Church is not so much interested in tending to the needs of her flock, as much as playing politics in the Middle East??

According to the story emigration puts "their historic communities in jeopardy. When they assimilate in their new countries, they are likely to lose their distinctive historic identities. Even when they remain Catholics, they are likely to join Roman Catholic congregations." You bet it does that - puts their communities in jeopardy - it's been doing that ever since Kerala Syrian Catholics have been migrating outside of their home state of Kerala whether to neighboring states within India or to countries outside. From the loss of their genealogically significant and colorful family names, to the slow mainstreaming of their womenfolk from chatta and mundu of yore to saris and now to the ubiquitous salwaar kameez, or the withering away of songs and hymns and ritual in Syriac, in favor of christmas trees and fruit-cake, Kerala Syrian Catholics in the diaspora in India and abroad, I think, have lost, failed to hand down or be handed down a core sense of Keralite identity, instead assimilating the dress, speech, and rituals of the dominant elements of their host societies.

Whether it's totally a bad thing is debatable - better to lose an atrophied identity and remain a living vibrant tolerant human being, I would say! In some later posts I'll try and document what those losses and gains have been for me on a personal level.

Trip to Mumbai - with Amul cheese to show for it!

2008-03-08T14:03:00.000-08:00

I know I hadn't posted for a while - but I wasn't idle!
Well - I promised you cooking with Amul cheese, in the desi Mac 'n' cheese post; but what I didn't know was how tough it would be to get the original tinned cheese that I remembered nibbling away during my childhood.

I checked the local Indian stores, and all they had were Amul singles - and I confess I had long ago switched to Krafts and whatever else our local Giant and Safeway proffered on their shelves. So my quest for the original Amul and attempt to recreate the mac-and-cheese of another day and age seem destined to stay unmet - EXCEPT that I had the wonderful opportunity to make a quick dash to Mumbai this past month. Met family, chatted into the wee hours of the morning with sisters, took a brisk early morning walk down Worli with one of them, all with a surreal feeling that if I stopped holding my breath the images would all come crumbling down like a giant Truman show make-believe ecosphere.

Anyway it wasn't imaginary, as I now have concrete proof here with me.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I am now the proud owner of two 400g tins of priceless Amul-ya processed cheese (actually there were three, but the first got gobbled up pretty quickly within a week of my return!)

But here are pictures.Now, I know I promised to do a desi mac 'n' cheese with the Amul as soon as I got a hold of some. But I haven't been able to work it into my family dinner menu as yet.

However I have a bonus offer: I made desi-spinach frittata with Amul this morning for brunch, and I have a recipe and picture, for those of you who might be curious!

Here's the recipe:

Ingredients:
half a red spanish onion chopped
1 green jalapeno pepper, chopped (reduce if needed)
1" piece of ginger chopped (or teaspoon of ginger paste)
1 sprig of curry leaves stripped from the stalk, and chopped if needed
half teaspoon of red chilli powder (if needed)
1 can of egg-beater ( or 6 eggs, if cholesterol is not an issue with you)
8 oz (half a bag) of frozen chopped spinach
quarter teaspoon of salt (or to taste)
2 tablespoons of olive oil
quarter can (100 g) of Amul processed cheese (or more, per taste), shredded

Heat a frying pan on moderate heat.
Pour oil when the pan is warm.
Add onions, jalapeno and curry leaves and saute till onions are translucent.
Add chilli powder, stir a couple of times then add spinach.
Stir till spinach well heated (never overcook spinach, as I believe the nutrients get lost);
add salt to taste;
spread the spinach evenly across pan;
spread the egg-beater till it covers the spinach evenly;
spread the grated cheese on top of spinach;
lower heat, cover frittata and cook for about 5-10 minutes till egg is set and cheese has melted.
Do not overcook.
Enjoy.

Here's the picture - the proof is in the eating!

On Apologies

2008-03-04T03:47:00.000-08:00

Nothing to do with anything..

But I thought this would be as good a time as any to soliloquize about apologies. Top five things to remember:

No one owes you an apology - so if they do, consider yourself overpaid!
The world being as it is, never expect an apology - but if they do, be surprised, astonished, overwhelmed!
Sometimes, those ingrates, they mean to ignore you, insult you, rub your nose to the ground, hurt you, all of those things...BUT sometimes, sometimes their error can be purely inadvertent, and so when they do apologize, let it GO!
And then again, in pure self-interest, while you may think right now you can be done with them, and that you don't really need them, who knows there may come a time when you do - so if they do apologize, when they didn't have to (see 1 above), when many others don't (2 above), when it was inadvertent (3 above), consider that you may sometime or the other need them, so be a grown up and save their face for them, let them live another day to save your face for you perhaps!
And last of all - even if 1, 2, 3, 4, above do not matter, remember:

"The quality of mercy is not strain'd;
  It droppeth as the gentle rain from heaven
  Upon the place beneath. It is twice blest:
  It blesseth him that gives and him that takes.
  'Tis mightiest in the mightiest; it becomes
  The throned monarch better than his crown;
  His sceptre shows the force of temporal power,
  The attribute to awe and majesty,
  Wherein doth sit the dread and fear of kings;
  But mercy is above this sceptred sway,
  It is enthroned in the hearts of kings,
  It is an attribute to God himself;
  And earthly power doth then show likest God's
  When mercy seasons justice. Therefore, Jew,
  Though justice be thy plea, consider this-
  That in the course of justice none of us
  Should see salvation; we do pray for mercy,
  And that same prayer doth teach us all to render
  The deeds of mercy. I have spoke thus much
  To mitigate the justice of thy plea,
  Which if thou follow, this strict court of Venice
  Must needs give sentence 'gainst the merchant there."

Merchant of Venice, William Shakespeare
http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext97/1ws1810.txt

Crossposted at pocketfulowry.blogspot.com

Traffic in India

2008-03-01T07:19:00.000-08:00

Must-see TeeVee - this is funny!

http://movielog.wordpress.com/2007/12/09/only-in-india/

Washington Post on India’s Schools and Caste system

2008-01-20T14:54:00.000-08:00

Following up to my previous post - here’s something else that needs work in India - if it is to come up to the 20th century.

A WaPo story on Indian schools and another on the caste system. (see Indian Author Tackles Prejudice “Inspired by ‘Uncle Tom’s Cabin,’ storyteller seeks to raise youth awareness of unjust caste system.” by Emily Wax and India’s Schools Work to Break Its Iron Castes)

The government since independence has done various things to fight “casteism” following up Gandhi’s original fight for the “untouchables”. This includes the various “reservation quotas” for college admissions and jobs - similar to the affirmative action programs in the US. But as in the US, the wealth effects of a growing economy, has created anomalies, and it is not uncommon to hear educated (upper) caste hindus (and others that do not fall into such favored categories) bemoan the limited access to college and government jobs because these have been whittled down after various scheduled castes and tribal reservation (i.e. lower caste) quotas are included. And evidence (as if it were needed) that inspite of the so-called rigidness of the caste system, India is a dynamic society - Indians have adjusted to this artificial “quota” by turning it on its head: you often hear that there is a heavy blackmarket in fake documents certifying scheduled caste/tribal ancestry obviously for the use of upper castes - after all this is a country that has pretty much invented the parallel economy, with parallel colleges, parallel licenses for everything from driver’s licenses to building contracts, housing pugdees etc. -

But more later.

While my post on fighting child labor seemed as if I might be fighting for the status quo - neither there nor here am I saying that the status quo is satisfactory - but as in the case of fighting against the women’s veil in Arab countries, I think the groundswell of a country’s own internal public opinion is what should force change not the arbitrary or vested interests of foreign governments and media that want a slice of that country’s economic pie.

In India’s case I hope I am not a paranoid sitting here - but the US educational industry seems to have put India’s vast market potential in its sights.

As long as that is not the driving factor behind the push for change in India…

More later.

This, by Monica Ali - On stopping Child Labor

2008-01-14T17:09:00.000-08:00

Another insightful perspective from Monica Ali's Brick Lane.. pg 301 - one of the many letters from Hasina, the protagonist's villager-sister:

“Lovely tell me she will start Charity for stopping the child worker. Which ones will you stop I asking to her. Oh she say all of them. The maid next door? I asking her this. She look surprise. But really she like daughter to them. The boys on roof who is now mend gutter sweep leaves? She look bit cross. That different she say. Which are the ones? The boy who come around sell butter? Lovely say are you washing that floor or not?”

Here’s a good commentary on the impracticality of anti-child labor activism. I'm not sure whether most of this activism began with the loss of jobs from the West to low-wage countries of South East Asia, but if so, it is the first clue to how progressive liberals have allowed themselves to be used to impede the cause of true liberalism. Is it really the urge to remove poverty and exploitation of the children of the world, that most anti-child labor ardor springs from or is it the urge to protect one’s own labor market? How is such protectionism consistent with a liberal’s aspirations for the world around them? Especially when there is enough evidence that employment, and the resulting increase in purchasing power of developing economies can only improve their economies, and create the foundations of a marketplace for exports of our own country's goods? It amazes me how we want to force the opening up of world markets, even if it requires the near dumping of our agricultural and farm products, but will not allow the equivalent "dumping" of their labor on grounds that it is "not on level playing field" - they have no health care (like we do? ha!), they allow child labor, they allow unsafe work conditions etc. etc. While these concerns are indeed important, Western countries must understand the local context before belaboring such issues. Sometimes, a child employed is a child that is off the streets, not begging, not stealing, but being apprenticed to a trade; I am not saying that unscrupulous businessmen do not take advantage of the vulnerabilities of such children, but what I am saying is that there is such a wide scale of unfortunate events that can and do happen to children, adults, women, men in the third world, that being forced to take up a job that can feed members of one's family, is sometimes not the worst thing that can happen to a 12 year-old - call it the mirror opposite, the third world version, of your expensive $1,500 kids' practical montessori training, lemonade stand, camp, or summer internship rolled into one. Children cannot be children, I can hear you wail, and my heart does go out to them - they should be in school, yes; but if the alternative is a poorly run government school, with absent or worse still, ill-taught teachers, ill-equipped classrooms, it could well be that a factory floor that guarantees the teaching of a trade, and a stipend to boot, is not such a terrible occurrence.

Why not allow the governments of developing countries, the child laborers of the world, their family and employers to be guided by your own norms - “think globally, act locally” ??

All this makes me sometimes question whether I am indeed a progressive liberal or a mean exploitative closeted capitalist – perhaps the two are not mutually exclusive. Or perhaps the goals and core philosophy of the current crop of progressive liberals are not completely consistent with true liberalism.

_________________ .... _________________

As an aside, I must say I was a bit put off by the stilted language adopted by Ali for Hasina's speech/writing. I couldn't put my finger on where the fault lay till I stumbled upon Anita Nair's website - frankly I hadn't heard of her (my deficiency entirely) until then, but was totally captivated by Anita's website, where under one of her FAQs (below) she gets exactly to the point I was having trouble with in Ali's prose for Hasina:

What makes your writing different from other Indians writing in English?

First of all, my books are set in the everyday world of India. Secondly, the characters who speak English in my book do so without making a farce out of it. To me, what a person says is more important than how they speak their words. And, this belief has found its way into all my writing. The other aspect is that in a book such as The Better Man that is set in a village, English is seldom spoken. But that does not mean that the average Keralite is illiterate or unaware of the world. He has probably read Omar Khayyam and Marx, Russell and Tolstoy in translation so that degree of education is perceived in the way he uses his words. So if some of my characters sound erudite, they are, in the language they grew up speaking. In such a context, Hybrid-English or the lack of it makes no difference to the atmosphere or plot or characterization.

Granted Hasina, who Ali forces to speak 'farcical' English is a villager and seems unlikely to have read Omar Khayyam or Marx; but even a villager such as she, a Bengali at that, who seemed to have such an expressive, original personality as shown through her letters to her sister, would speak her native Bengali fluently. The ill-phrased, ill-constructed, ungrammatical sentences made her seem to be more doltish than the spunky, tom-boy of a village-maid that her actions showed her to really be.

So here I am expressing some minor disappointment with that part of Ali's composition - but who am I to be disappointed at someone who has put together such an otherwise beautifully perceptive, almost fully believable tale of a people - something which every immigrant, whether Bengali, or Muslim, or Hindu, whether rich or poor, whether crossing into the US, or UK, or even urban Mumbai, can surely identify with!

{Crossposted at http://paisleysandpeacocks.wordpress.com}

[UPDATE] I hasten to add that nothing I’ve said here absolves governments of developing countries who need to do their best to provide quality schooling and education (I heard that the Indian government has plans to open up a slew of high level universities across the country - I wonder whether, they first need to make sure that their elementary and high schools are fully up to snuff, and poor families have equal access to good education, and find it worth their while to send their kids to such schools instead of opting for short term gains at local factories.) But developed countries need to get off their high horse - no use pretending that labor activism of any kind is not out of the most inward looking, illiberal motives!!

Monica Ali - On immigrants’ complaints

2008-01-12T19:58:00.000-08:00

Just finished reading Monica Ali's Brick Lane. Enjoyed it.

Some thing hit a nerve - on immigrants' complaints - p 53

Nazneen said, “My husband says it is discrimination.”

“Ask him this, then. Is it better than our own country, or is it worse? If it is worse, then why here? If it is better, why does he complain?”

I have heard variations of this comment myself here in the US. And my answer is this:

This is absolutely a false dichotomy. Life in the US is indeed better than back home, but it could be enormously better, given this country’s seemingly endless resources. The US holds itself as first among all; its policies affect the whole world whether it’s trade, or human rights, or spreading democracy, or spreading war and death and destruction. And that is why I cannot bring myself to refrain from complaints and criticism. My complaints are not on my own behalf, but on behalf of all those who would help make this country a better yardstick of civilization’s progress. Many of us came to this country because it was a “beacon of hope” as the cliché goes. I remember attending an event at a Kerala Church in NY a very long time back and listening to an elderly immigrant grandparent “karnavar” of sorts, bearing witness aloud, proclaiming his thanks to God for bringing him and his family to this Promised Land. To him, the US was indeed the Biblical Promised Land. My complaints, when I make them, (sometimes in less than diplomatic terms,) is merely an effort to bring this adopted homeland closer to an universal Promised Land!

Collecting Kerala Christian Names - 1800's???

2008-01-05T08:35:00.000-08:00

I wanted to develop a repository of Kerala Christian first names from as far back as possible to see patterns, if any.
This is going to be an exercise in anthropology probably.. in the US, for example, the Social Security Agency often releases most girl and boy popular names. And it would be interesting to take this concept to Kerala for as far back as we can go! I'll leave this post as a new post every day for about a week to see if we can get any volunteers and I'll keep publishing any interesting feedback!
So you can list names of your male and female relatives, in-laws, cousins nth times removed, friends in no particular order with just approximate birth-year, and place of birth (if outside Kerala); if you don't want to post in the open comments, you can email.
So for starters I have:
Eliyamma (c. 1890)
Marykutty (c. 1940) - variations, mariakutty, kunjumaria, mariamma)
Thresiamma (c. 1930) (Tessy - 1925)
Thankachen (c. 1950)
Mutthachen (c. 1955)
Kuriachen (c. 1940)
Varkichen (c.1920)
Joichen (c.1940)
Chackochen (c. 1930)

Ready-mades

2007-12-30T15:28:00.001-08:00

I often bristle when people in the West criticize the Arabs for 'forcing' their women to dress in burkhas. And I imagine that the West, no less than male-dominated Arab society, wants less the freedom of the women, than control of how they choose to dress themselves.

In Kerala, the chatta and mundu had long ago, given way to the sari in my mother's generation, just as the sari has yielded to the churidhar kurta or salwaar kameez in my generation, and kurtas and kameezes to the universal jeans, mini skirts, and probably tailored business suits in the call-centers and software consulting companies of today. And while each old Oommamma (or Ammoomma) who rebelled against her chatta wearing chedathis thought she was on the leading edge of change and revolution, little did she realize that all she was doing was forsaking her unique mores and customs in favor of a more uniform, homogenized way of living; one that could be reduced to small, medium, large sizes of kurtas and skirts and slip easily out of those chinese sewing machines outsourced by those fashion czars sitting in Madison Avenue or Malabar Hills.

We get kolhapuri look-alikes made in china (not Kolhapur) from Payless shoes for $10, and chickan cutwork skirts made in china (not Kutch, Gujarat) from Kohl's for $25 -

Perhaps the problem is me? I am happy for the kohlapuri look-alikes sitting in DC - anything for resurrecting my nostalgic past, remembering frantic shopping trips to Bandra, or Gandhi Market hunting in that sweltering heat, or rain, or whatever weather for the exact size and shape and feel of a rugged looking kohlapuri...

I am reminded of something I once read, of how sometimes we are the particle and sometimes the wave! We think our needs, wants, behavior is unique and won't matter in the larger scheme of things, but a 1,000 of us collectively needing, wanting, behaving the same way marks a trend that for good or for ill, could become irreversible.

Another thing I am constantly surprised by is how vast and diverse the US marketplace seems - when all the items sold revolve around the same exact three specs whether they be shoes, or bed frames, or overcoats, or computer briefcases - small, medium, large. Ever bought a Queen sized fitted sheet that did not fit a Queen sized mattress whether bought from Macy's, or Hecht's or Strawbridge's or a discount Mattress store? All made in that same little Chinese city but branded by Macy's, Hecht's or whatever, I suppose. The scary thing is, the chinese probably know that! No, not through datamining or fancy business intelligence that keeps US businesses busy - just sharing family jokes during the village and family get-togethers...Hey Lao Zhao, no need to print those Strawbridge's labels this year, they've gone bankrupt, just double the Macy's labels they've gone and bought out May's and Hecht's.. then dust your hands and go back to making those mattresses..

Personal Space

2007-12-30T15:27:00.001-08:00

A few weeks back in the DC metro (subway), I saw a guy, suited-booted, office-type, sitting, meditating with eyes closed and hands in a controlled open-palm, yoga posture - no, he wasn't sitting cross-legged. I'd be embarrassed to be caught doing something like that, then, and there. But it got me thinking about personal spaces, physical (and now virtual) and how we construct them, command them, or cede them and establish boundaries. I thought of how some people commandeer a wide radius of space around them (no, not wide stances). In fact it was in this country (the US) that I came across the expression "he was in my personal space" as in standing too close for comfort. In India, riding trains, waiting in line, and in other public areas, one was used to being squished like sardines with strangers, yet there was a discrete distance one kept between people one knew well. In fact, in India, the distance publicly kept between people is probably, in inverse proportion to the intimacy between them!

Quite the converse in the US, where you would be hard-pressed not to find couples sitting in public, or even in another's living room in intimate conversations with each other, in public displays of affection (or what teens call PDA), instead of chatting with their hosts; proving what? their relationship with their partner is still on fire (and not on the rocks)? 'I am such good friends with you, the host, that su casa is mi casa and...'? - while the hosts,(especially if they're Indians), look unseeingly through the PDA! It reminds me of the Namesake scene when Kal Penn's character gives his white girlfriend a 101 on Indian etiquette - no holding hands or kissing in front of the folks.

I used to attribute the appropriation of public spaces to the Western idea of individualism extending to control and dominance, - 'I am free to do what I can wherever I can'.But then I contrast this with scenes that flit through my mind

of the poor Indian slum dweller who is 'allowed' to carry out their most personal activities in public - I don't suppose the slum dweller has much of a choice there.
the hurried US office worker using the metro-ride to conducting their toiletry in elaborate detail from clipping nails, tweezing eyebrows, donning foundation creams, rouge, mascara and lipstick... so very like that slum-dweller.
of the harried Indian housewife who chops her Bhindi (okra), splits her peas from the pods in the Womens' first class on Churchgate-Dadar express - at least they used to many years back - with packaged and frozen foods on the rise, they're probably now playing poker like the men in Men's compartment used to then!

Except for the slum-dweller's case, there's seems to be a weird spillage on the space-time continuum here - when one runs out of time, you begin to push outward occupying spaces you might not otherwise have occupied; can't fit your make-up chores into your time at home, use the public space to do it in. Whether the converse is true - for people who live out their lives constantly in the public space, is a topic for another time.

Insourcing Bollywood!

2007-12-30T15:26:00.000-08:00

All last week long NPR had been running a series on the potential in India's entertainment industry.

First of course there's the fledgling animation industries and the traditional outsourcing role they have taken to playing for Hollywood's media moguls - cheap animator labor reducing costs for the inexhaustible American marketplace (did you see any drop in your ticket prices for Spiderman 3? No? perhaps the labor cost savings went into the pockets of the studio owners who are right now fighting on another front trying to protect their bulging pockets from those thieving starving writers - see http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1674063,00.html ).

But then there's the reverse trend:

Sony tries to muscle its way into the lucrative Bollywood market with Saawariya - what's to lose? the cinema market in India is lush and cultivated - the holy trinity of 1 billion film addicts, the ever more magnificent movie theater multi-plexes that are strewn across big metropolises and small suburban areas, and the robust bollywood industry of actors, cameramen, directors and musicians, consumers, distributors and producers all ready and waiting for Sony to come and skim its share of the proceeds -WHY? Because it can! (http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=17148807)
Virgin Comics - Richard Branson in another alliance with Deepak Chopra's son turns India's folklore into gold for the Englishman's coffers - http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=17187840. (First they patented the garlic and turmeric into private intellectual property, now the stories that our grandparents told us.)

India is no longer merely a cheap source of labor, but maybe a cheap source of ideas and cheap source of big, fat, juicy sales revenue!

We've seen this film before, haven't we? - it was called "East India Company"!!

Vacation I

2007-12-30T15:25:00.000-08:00

Growing up in India, vacations were the same every year – summers visiting our parents’ ‘native place’, Kerala, a trek our parents took to all that was familiar and known to them, which ironically became for us an adventure into the unknown or at least the semi-known. Ironically again, we were to mimic our parent’s roles in similar inter-generational treks reserved for us in the future with our children on transatlantic visits 'home' to India. The difference, of course, was that 'home' was redefined as the entire subcontinent, rather than just my parent's birthplace, Kerala.

The trips to Kerala began and ended with a bone-crushing two-day train journey in the sweltering pre-monsoon heat on the Indian Railway’s Cochin Express pulled by steam-powered locomotives, puffing outbound from Bombay (now Mumbai) at the intricately carved, cavernous VT Station (the initials, which then stood for Victoria Terminus should rightfully have changed to CST, for the station apparently was rechristened as Chhatrapathi Sivaji Terminus in 1996, but the thoughtful public steadfastly cling to VT! which I must thank them for - can you imagine being stranded in Mumbai, bad enough that we have to call it that, and then having to ask for directions to VT and drawing a blank from the cabbie?). The trip usually in May at the height of the summer heat, then seemed tedious, draining every ounce of energy from all of us, but is now laden with memories so dear! The train would wind its way through Pune, Lonavla, the Western Mountain Ranges or ‘the Ghats’, the highlands and green forest jungles of Kerala’s Malabar Coast at the end of which we would emerge with faces blackened like chimney sweeps, coal dust in our hair, teeth, armpits and every exposed crevice and pore of our bodies. As my father’s fortunes rose we graduated to first class and then air-conditioned-first, which unfortunately resulted in sealing us off from contact with real life. Train travel in India in those days was nothing if not a contact sport - loud blustering arguments between coolies and customers, the jostling of co-passengers scavenging for more than their fair share of space, the explosion of aromas as an assortment of spices from home-cooked parathas, thayiru saadams, sambars, and railway canteen puri-bhajis assaulted all our senses, the trading pit frenzy of the station vendors’ pakoras and samosas competing for our attention and purse – all denied to us in the cool, silent, insulated comfort of the Indian Railways air-conditioned first-class left us feeling that we were at the losing end of the bargain. The mixed pleasure of that chaos and clamor were, as is usually the case, felt only in their absence and we continued our annual pilgrimage home in decorum, ease and respectability while cut off from all that raw life.

Little wonder then, that, much to my family’s consternation, on my very first attempt at independent travel over thirty years ago, I instinctively headed for the hills of Ootacamund (Ooty), to test the toy trains and view the hills and tea and coffee plantations of South India. To this day, that trip is rarely mentioned by me or others in the family - not quite as if I had eloped, had a child out of wedlock or committed some other equally grave social faux pas - but near enough! I had a fair idea as to what, about that trip, might have seemed irksome: for one thing there was the traveling at 25, and then the travelling as an unmarried woman, and then again the travelling unaccompanied, and, the nail on the coffin, so to speak, the travelling on a trip having nothing to do with work or visiting family! No, it wasn’t a visit to the ‘native’ place!

That was decades before the internet. All I did by way of trip planning was to get an airplane ticket and schedule to the nearest airport, Coimbatore. On landing, a short trip by cycle rickshaw to the interstate bus depot got me on my way to a two hour unreserved bus trip to Ooty, through some of the most picturesque landscapes I’d ever seen, between one bustling village after another. I don’t quite remember how I landed up at Hotel Dasaprakash, but it was clean, comfortable and well within my budget. I walked around exploring the neighborhoods in and around the hotel the first couple of days, before embarking on a tour of the mountains. And, at Dodabetta Peak in the Nilgiris, came upon one of the most stunning lookouts that I had ever seen, which I suppose, was not saying very much for me, at that time. But many, many years later I was to come upon another lookout, almost identical, almost half the world over, and I had a sense of indescribable déjà vu - but let me not get ahead of my story.

The valley that the Dodabetta Peak looked out at was misty with the cold air and oils from the magnificent eucalyptus trees that Ooty is known for. In the briskness of the mountain air I tugged hard at my thin shawl which I found wanting, having carried it more for show than substance. Some of my companions on the tour bus that took us to the mountain tops took pictures, but neophyte traveler that I was at that time, I hadn’t armed myself with the, now obligatory travelling appendage, a camera! I suppose my memory of those hills and trees and brisk mountain air has weathered the passing of these thirty years, but I search google for pictures of Ooty that might match the view from that lookout in my memory’s eye, and incredibly, I find none! Was it all a figment of my fevered imagination? Or did I once stand up there at the top of the Nilgiris on Dodabetta Peak?

[Crossposted at PocketfuloWry.blogspot.com and to be continued...]

A Desi Mac 'n' cheese

2007-12-30T15:24:00.000-08:00

How do you identify with the word “international” here in the US? do you like me consider it always a synonym for multi-lingual and cultural mixing South American with African or Asian (and of course Indian, Malayali, anything that relates to the various parts of you that you left behind)? And so, would you, like me get a little disappointed when the typical mainstream American squanders the word in contexts where ‘European’ or ‘Western’ would as well suit the bill? like using a 1-gallon container for a thimbleful of milk, or even half a cup of milk?

I guess that was my reaction to the Yahoo Food blog (http://food.yahoo.com/blog/themagicalmeltingpot/1576/mac-n-cheese-4-ways ), The Magical Melting Pot's story of Mac 'n' Cheese 4 Ways, where she added "you can also easily create international versions of mac 'n' cheese by adding locally popular cheeses and proteins such as salami, ham, or shrimp and local flavors such as dill or chili peppers. " (emphasis mine) and then followed that with Italian, Mexican, Swiss and Danish versions of America's beloved Mac 'n' cheese! I suppose the inclusion of the 'Mexican' version half justified that international claim!

But where is the Indian version I cried!

Oh! didn't you know either that there is an Indian version? I suppose it's not widely known - it was just a little adaptation that a friend shared with me long, long ago, before I'd even crossed the border! So I'll pass it along [I know, I know, I'd said that this wasn't going to be a cooking blog - but I'd filed this as something I wanted to comment on when I saw that Yahoo story a few days back, so look at it as a bonus :)]

Here's how you do it:

Materials for 4 servings: A cup of macaroni, half an onion diced, a couple of green chillies chopped, a cube of ginger chopped (or a teaspoon of ginger paste), an egg beaten (optionally substitute with a tablespoon of maida or self-raising flour and half a mug of milk), pinch of salt, 1 tomato diced, chopped coriander leaves, half a mug of peas (optional) AND HALF A TIN OF AMUL CHEESE grated!!! {Back in those days there was only 1 flavor - cheddar - and it came in a small half pound (I think) tin container; it may be quite different today! but this will work only with AMUL CHEDDAR - if not you may as well abandon the project :) }

Set the oven to 350 degrees.

Cook the macaroni per directions (9-10 minutes in boiling water), adding the onions, chillies, salt, ginger, peas, tomatoes half-way through.

Drain macaroni completely.

Add beaten egg (heat milk, sprinkle maida/self-raising flour and mix in heated milk), 3/4 of grated cheese.

Top with remaining cheese and garnish with coriander leaves.

Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

Enjoy!

PS. I will try and add a picture later when I cook this next.

Why a Desi Blog, and Why Now?

2007-12-30T15:18:00.000-08:00

Let’s first put away these questions if they’re vexing your mind at all.

You will agree, I’m sure, that there’s nothing more that a Mallu would like than his or her own soap box, so blog envy probably runs rampant in every Mallu heart. And it’s been no different for me. Now while I’ve nursed these feelings for sometime, what pushed me over the edge, was a simply delightful Andhra blog (http://www.nandyala.org/mahanandi/ ) that I came across while doing a little research on Kerala recipes in preparation for our upcoming Christmas dinner – wholesome, transparent, focused, imaginative… the adjectives came rushing out of my mouth on browsing through Mahanandi. Both blogger and bloggees seemed equally worthy subjects for the desi equivalent of a Norman Rockwell painting! Consider the post and comments on Mahanandi:

Understandably, that got my competitive juices going and I thought surely one can find a Malayali blog to match? When I searched for “Malayali cooking", I was simply shocked at what Google threw me up! Both in number and kind! almost 364,000 matches, or so it said, almost all of them selling cook books and tour packages in Quillon, or Alleppey! Nothing with the taste and personality of Mahanandi. When I changed my search to "Malayali blogs" the spectrum widened to now include matrimonials and real estate in Quillon or Alleppey!

I did come across one that seemed to offer something refreshingly different (http://www.keralatips.org/) and a couple of sites that ostensibly tracked all the Kerala blogs the worldover (keralaclick.com and onkerala.com), all of which deserves a post of its own.

Browsing through Keralatips was, I must say an exercise in pure nostalgia but on reading one particular exchange of comments my hopes for finding something wholesome and clean ( a la Biden’s Obama) were, as they say, dashed!

Here’s one fiercesome exchange between two of the Keralatips readers - I'll leave the names out...

"Reader 1: ___is just another, wannabe phirangi, white judeo-christian nationalist aka western look at Kerala.. ___, As if we dont have enough to deal with.. ....

Reader 2: Your character sketch of ____leaves me to believe that not only are you ignorant, you are also illiterate. I would assume that anyone with a passion for writing drivel the way you do, would at least take the time to know more about what you are spewing venom against. But alas, in the true tradition of all your worthless influences, from our beloved state, you choose to leave nuggets of your ill-researched bullshit.

Here’s a quick analysis of you…from me…your country cousin.You were a sub standard student through school, had the popularity of a cholera outbreak throughout your life, a career that doesnt amount to much, ..........

You wish you were capable enough to pump gas!!

Regards"

What is it about Malayalis that gets them into fisticuffs with one and all, I asked my husband when I had picked myself off the floor from reading that exchange.

“Malayalis are intellectuals!” he explained in a self-serving way.

Well, intellectual or not, let’s say, I perceive a distinct market opportunity – and so I’m here to offer something tasteful and contemporary, while representing the Mallu diaspora with distinction without of course getting into a blogfight with my peers at Malayali blogs elsewhere; I will yield the realm of cooking and crafts to my admirable Andhra blogger counterparts, and will try to compensate for that lack by other contributions yet to be outlined – for now it's all vapor-ware being offered, so you will just have to be patient, and I will do my best to make the wait worth the while.

[UPDATE: I must say that I might have to eat my words about Malayali blogs - I happened to stumble upon what seems to be the meta-blog of Kerala blogs called "Kerala Blog Roll" at http://www.cs.princeton.edu/~mp/malayalam/blogs.html . That illustrious effort displays a vast diversity amongst Kerala Bloggers - guess we are a talkative bunch - who number over 700 it looks like! And while I haven't had the time to take a look at more than a couple, the ones that I did look at, seemed informed, contemporary, and very, very entertaining! I may have misspoke - I now think, the malayali blog is alive and well! Wonderful! Now please make a little room for me :) ]

Kindly,

Pais & Peas